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  Today, I met with the member of a deer club near Jackson, Ga. who told me that coyotes were decimating his deer herd. The reality is that this is the situation all over our state. Clubs will spend thousands of dollars acquiring land, liability insurance, spending time and money putting in elaborate food plots and even supplemental feed stations all in an effort to increase the health of the deer herd and grow Trophy bucks. Unfortunately, what most clubs do not understand is if you do not have a Predator Control Program to remove coyotes and bobcats on a regular basis, most of this other work is for naught. Research studies all over the country have proved that Coyotes kill between 55-75% of the newborn fawns every year on a club. Bobcats also kill deer but to a lesser extent. So, the bottom line is that most of the money spent in these other areas is winding up as coyote scat on your logging roads.      

    I have never heard a Wildlife Biologist recommend to a club that they hire a Professional Trapper to manage the Predator Population on a Deer Club, so I am going to let you know that this is the most important thing you can do as a club to: 1. Dramatically increase the number of fawns that will survive to maturity and 2. Ensure you have dramatically more bucks to grow to Trophy size. "Understand this fact. Coyotes eat the deer, rabbits and turkeys on your club 365 days a year." By incorporating a Coyote Control Program on your deer club, you are giving each one of these game animals the very best chance at survival and population growth.    

     Perhaps you are saying, but how can we afford to add this program to our club. Well, lets look at several options to provide the funding necessary.I've already explained that this is the MOST IMPORTANT thing you can do to increase your deer herd. Since your club more than likely has a budget, lets see where we can move money from without adding additional members.   1. For one season, cut the number of food plots planted in half or don't plant any at all. Many times food plots will regenerate with a low bush hogging and fertilizing. 2. If you provide supplemental feeding, suspend that for one season. 3. Re evaluate your liability insurance carrier and shop for a lower rate. 4. Meet with your landowner and see if you can negotiate a lower lease price. It certainly doesn't hurt to ask. 5. See if the landowner will share the cost of the Program with the club. 

    With the money saved from the above suggestions, you now can afford to have a Professional Trapper come in and remove coyotes and bobcats from the property. This may not have to be done every year unless your predator population is high. Once every two years may be sufficient. You can have the Trapper come back on an annual basis and do an assessment at minimal cost. The best part is that you will see immediate results. One study that was done on a 2000 acre club in Alabama where 22 Coyotes and 10 Bobcats were removed, resulted in the increase of the fawn survival rate that year of 256%!! What we are doing as Trappers is pulling a certain number of the predators out of the population and giving the fawns, turkeys and rabbits a "window of opportunity" to survive until maturity. That is why what we do is called Wildlife Management. It is an ongoing process, but if you are serious about QDM, then a Predator Control Program is vital to it's success! Hunters and Trappers must join forces to work together to manage this problem.

 

www.easternwolferscoyotetrappers.com/


https://www.facebook.com/wildlifecontrolandmanagement

Tim Ivey May 2 '14
I am still pretty new at coyote trapping and I was wondering how to make waxed dirt. Here in Illinois we have had a pretty rough winter, along with the rest of the country, but I normally just use dry dirt from inside of a barn to bed and cover the trap, them use the dirt I dug to cover it up. I kept having a problem early on of the ground thawing out during the day and freezing at night, and I know for a fact it cost me at least 4 coyotes. I have never made waxed dirt and was wondering what all of you guy's take on it was. From what I have heard it helps keep the sets from freezing a lot. I hope you guys can help me out a little here, thanks.
Drew Miller Mar 12 '14 · Comments: 2
I'm in SC and we have seen a bunch of rain lately.  In fact it was raining the day I set my first traps.  I'm using MB-550's in dirt holes targeting coyotes.  It has continued to rain throughout the week but we just had a couple of days of dry weather.  I have seen very little sign, except for yesterday I went to check a trap around 8 in the morning and as I pulled up a coyote was 50 yards down the lane heading towards the trap.  Of course he spooked and I got out of there quickly. 
I have a few questions regarding the rain.  I noticed after things dried out a little that the dirt sifted just over my pan is dry and the packed dirt (mud) around is still wet so there is discoloration.  Will that spook the coyote? I am using peat moss as a pan cover.  Also, I am using gatorbait in the hole, and ol' 3 toes as lure around the lip of the hole.  Do I need to be re-baiting or re-luring because of all of the rain? I thought it would be best to stay out of the set as much as possible. Also, the landowner where I am trapping has a wifi connected infrared trail cam that sends text messages when it takes a picture.  We have it set up across the road from a set.  All week it has been nothing but deer and one possum, but last night it snapped a photo of a big coyote passing right by my set.  It never came back.  I'm just thinking that maybe the lure or bait needs a re-do.  Thoughts?
Chris deTreville Feb 7 '14 · Comments: 1 · Tags: coyote rain dirt hole
ok.. first time EVER trapping.. this year.. just got 2 sets made up one blind set and one bobcat dirt hole set. dirt hole had 2 Bridger #3s, fully laminated Canadian jaws, modified... the whole 9 yards. went to check it for the first time and traps was gone!!! screen for one of the pans all chewed up.. one anchor was pulled and the other was simply unhooked from the trap and was still in ground. totally legal to trap where I was.. and the blind set I had got dug up.. sooo im off to  a realllllllyyyy bad start. I figure somebody's dog got in the dirt hole set and they got mad and took my traps. I have permission to trap and again.. totally legal to be here. really sucks...
Josh Kelly Jan 1 '14 · Comments: 9
This is a set I like to use occasionally. It takes a little time to construct but usually pays off big. I mostly use it on small properties were there isn't a lot of room. I can put this one set in at a good location and take most of the coyotes in the area. To start with I like a good intersect, preferably where several travel ways meet. The set i will show in the photo is on top of a main ridge where 4 different logging roads meet and one trail that goes on down the ridge. I put out a full beaver that was saved from a summer control job. THe beaver is wired to a tree and covered with leaves and debris. Covering it up keeps most birds of prey and so on off it. It also sort of makes the coyotes feel like they have found something and get curious. I then block down the back of the set, not to heavily though. Just enough to keep them from getting to it. I have 6 different traps on  this set. 2 are at the back about 18 in. back. Even though the bait is blocked from here I have noticed some coyotes will still circle to the back to investigate things. I have 2 more traps on a slight angle to the left and about 18 in. back. The other 2 traps are on a slight angle to the right and about 18 in. back. I like my traps back this far on these sets because I am wanting to catch any coyote that investigates the set and not only the ones that commit to it. The set in the photo is blocked from the front by the crooked little sapling but for the most part I have found coyotes to prefer working a set from one side or the other anyway. I also use a few sticks for guiding. If there are any cats in the area i usually pick up a few of them too off this set.
Sierra Deitz Nov 22 '13 · Comments: 1
As we are all getting ready for the fur trapping season I would like to present a challenge to each of us. I would like everyone to remember the youth this season. I challenge all of us to take a youth trapping at least once. They are going to be our future. Weather or not they ever become trappers if they are exposed to trapping they will have a understanding of our tradition. If you don't have a kid in the family I am sure you find one that would be more than happy to go along one day. Be sure to make the day informative but fun too. This challenge should be a easy one and not a inconvenience for anyone. It might just help to preserve our tradition of trapping in the future also. Hope everyone will take me up on this. 
Sierra Deitz Oct 20 '13
I bought some Dakota line snares there 3/32 7x7 cable and there loaded.The trouble i'm having is there not wanting to fall correctly there wanting to drag and hang up.Doe's anyone have any suggestions  on what i could do to make them fall quick and not hang?
chad price Sep 17 '13 · Comments: 3
Does anyone use wax dirt? I made up some wax dirt for this season but I had some questions on how to use it. What do you guys use for a trap pan cover with wax dirt? In the set, where all do you put the wax dirt?
Gavin Sickels Sep 4 '13
Hi everyone.

About me. I'm a small time trapper. I trap coons, rats, fox, coyotes and lately, ground hogs.
I'm a self employed mechanic. Mostly on farm equipment. I will work on the farmers wifes car with a little protest. I am the local welding guy.
I'm also a small time farmer. A friend offered me 115 acers last year. I'm getting a lesson for sure. My corn marketing skills are awful.

P.s. Hi clint. I hang with Clay Mace maybe too much. We will be in Lima Thursday morning.
Tim Henry Jul 27 '13 · Comments: 2
I hope to get to meet some of my fur brothers from trapper nation at the Georgia trappers convention on September 15 and 16 and also at the South Carolina trappers convention November 2 and 3 ill be there hope to see yall there
John wilson Jul 26 '13
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